Rock Climbing FAQ

How does climbing compare to other workouts?
Climbing is a decidedly different from your typical workout.  Instead of pounding out sets with heavy weights or the mind numbing monotony of running, climbing is based on the human scale.  By that I mean the weight that the human body is designed to lift, body weight.  You can see it in the decidedly odd looking weightlifter physiques, they may be able to squat 500 lbs but they can't even touch their toes.

Climbing is a very core intensive activity (by core I mean the groupings of back and abdominal muscles that stabilize the spine/torso).  Most people can climb 50 vertical feet of stairs without even breaking a sweat, but traveling 50 vertical feet of a rock wall is a different story.  A lot of that has to do with the tremendous amount of tension required to hold certain positions when climbing.  Its almost as if you're doing yoga poses in a variety of sequences as you move from hold to hold up the wall.  Muscles used for lateral stabilization and balance become very important when you're hanging from a tenuous position and preparing to grasp for the next hold.  We're used to supporting and balancing our bodyweight primarily with our legs.  This tendency can let our upper-body become rather underutilized.  For the beginning climber the forearms are a critical "weak-link", because despite their size they are needed to support large portions of bodyweight.

Climbing definitely has a strong mental component that I find extremely satisfying.  Its like a three dimensional puzzle that has strong physical limitations.  Balance, technique and body tension can make a huge difference in a climbers ability.  Consequently, women with far less physical strength are often far superior climbers.  It seems counter intuitive, but a few factors seem to have greater value than just raw strength.  Strength to weight ratio is a big one... because women often have less to lift they don't need to generate as much force.  In addition the tendency of women to use balance and finesse over brute strength can have a huge effect.  Of course it also helps that accomplished female climbers often have svelte little figures too ;).  But that's a chicken before the egg discussion I won't get into.

I'll leave you with one last point to consider...  Professional athletes who focus on one sport/activity often look out of balance.  Distance runners often have half-starved gaunt figures.  Weightlifters can look really strong but still "off" somehow.  Now I'm not saying a runner with a balanced exercise regimen and cross trains is going to look odd.  Not by any means, but I am saying that climbing tends to be a "more" balanced activity in itself.  If you look at top pro climbers that do it non stop as much as humanly possible.  They look great, balanced but really strong.  That goes for both girls and guys.  Climbing isn't unique in this sense... swimming, soccer, surfing... and on are also pretty balanced activities in themselves.  I'm just saying that climbing is one of those, so... feel free to climb hard.  You might even get really into it.
Is this safe?
Good question, and a common concern.  Yes, climbing is very safe.  Probably a lot safer than the car you get into every morning.  Indoor rock climbing is practically idiot-proof.  Initially, internal alarms blare a resounding...  "HOLY CRAP I'M GONNA DIE"  every time you take a little fall or are lowered after a climb.  But this is natural and an important safety mechanism.  In time you develop a working comfort zone within which you develop an understanding that if you follow some basic rules you are completely safe at all times.  These safety measures become as commonplace as buckling your seat-belt.  However when climbing there is always your climbing partner there to double check.  There is also a healthy margin for error built into the system, and consequently injuries in indoor climbing facilities are almost unheard of (there are occasional finger injuries and knee scrapes).  Big injuries don't occur as far as I know.  Outdoor is a different story, because it is based on highly variable set of circumstances.  When done properly, it is also extremely safe.
What are top roping, lead climbing, and bouldering?
Top roping
Top roping is the beginners method of rock climbing. That isn't to say that advanced climbers don't do it, but everybody starts with this method because its the simplest way to rock climb.  Top roping takes two people, a climber and a belayer, both with harnesses on. The rope connects to the harness of the climber, then to an anchor at the very top of the climbing wall, then back down to the belayer's harness.  The belayer controls the rope with a fancy little bit of engineering genius called a "belay device", I know... how'd they think of that one? The belayer is responsible for taking in the slack that is created as the climber moves up the face of the wall.    When the climber makes it all the way up to the top of the climb, the belayer gently lowers the climber back to the ground.  If it sounds complicated, its not.  I see 12 year olds figure it out and do it on their own in minutes.
There is a little bit more to it, like clipping carabiners and tying a knot... but it'll take mere minutes to learn.  Something else to remember is that the falls you take when top roping will never be more than a few vertical inches.  An attentive belayer will probably sense that you're struggling and cinch up those few last inches most of the time anyway.  I guess my point here is that top roping is not all that scary in the first place, but once you get used to it, its very comfortable.

Bouldering
Bouldering is about as simple and pure as climbing can get.  While beginners can most definitely learn to boulder, its slightly more difficult (or maybe just intimidating) than top roping.  Bouldering has no ropes, no harnesses, no nothing.  Well except for a pad that you can slide under you.  Yep, you just fall onto the pad.  But bouldering routes are short, under 12' or so.  So if you fall correctly its really not an issue.  Sure, there is the possibility that you could turn an ankle or something, but its really not that far.  Bouldering can be done alone or with a friend to spot you.  Spotters are often used to make sure you don't take a "bad" fall.  A spotter is someone that stands under but slightly out of the way when you're bouldering.  If you take some goofy swing and are about to land funny they make sure your head doesn't hit the pad first.  The goal in spotting is not to stop or slow a fall really, but mainly to guide a fall to the pad a little more smoothly.  If this sounds terrifying, reserve your opinion until you actually see someone doing it.  A 6' tall person falling from 10' only has 4' to fall, with a bend of the knees and a soft pad underneath you... its really very reasonable.

Lead climbing
Lead climbing is similar to top roping, but not for beginners.  They make you take a test to see if you're capable before you're allowed to climb in that area of the gym.  The first big difference you'll notice, is that there is no rope hanging from a big top anchor like top roping.  There are a bunch of anchors scattered over the surface of the rock wall at about 6' spacing.  A rope is still used and you need a belayer, but you clip the rope into the anchors as you go up the face of the wall.  The scary part is that however high you get above your last clip you will fall double that.  Say you were 3' above your last clip, you'll fall 6'.  You still won't hit the ground, but it requires a different level of attention.  At this point you're probably asking yourself "why in the hell would you even want to lead climb?"   Well there are a few reasons.  When top roping, you generally have to stay under the anchor to avoid dangerous swings, lead climbing is not limited by that.  You can climb up 6' over 10' up 4' over 5' then up the last bit, this allows for significantly more elaborate routes.  Also, huge overhangs can be climbed without dangerous swings that would occur if you tried to top rope them.  And lastly, the very real possibility of a fall makes things a lot more REAL.  Its a bit of a mind game to be sure.
What do I need to know to climb indoor?

I recommend the intro lesson at Vertical hold, they go over the exact same information shown on the two videos below.  But there is an added element.  You physically have to do it yourself and the instructor will adjust your technique as needed.  Professional instruction makes it a lot safer for the the climber who's life you are protecting as a belayer.  These techniques seem complex at first, but they soon become as simple as tying your shoe.

Videos
How to belay (link to video)
How to tie into the harness (link to video)
What are "setters", and why do I care?
While outdoor routes are made by nature, indoor routes are created/designed by setters.  Setting is the process of selecting and placing holds in various orientations and locations in order to create a route that the climber is required to stay within as they progress up the wall.  Indoor and outdoor climbing routes both have ratings.  Ratings are numerical values that indicate the difficulty level (ex. 5.9).  While this is sortof an arbitrary judgment made by the setter, it is usually backed up by the opinions of others (sometimes its adjusted later).  Routes not only have different levels of difficulty but they vary greatly in how fun they are.  Some routes can be downright painful and annoying, some have unique balance moves, some put you into truly odd positions.  Some routes are relatively straight forward and some take a bit of finesse and perseverance to get through.  A good indoor facility has a good balance of difficulty levels, but also some really unique routes.  For the casual climber quality is important but frequently changing routes is not.  Frequent visitors are very aware of when they change the routes and itching to to try them out.
Lets face it, if you wanted to climb a ladder you could probably do that at home.  A good setter is that guy that you'll probably never meet, but makes the climbing experience both unique and worthwhile.  Challenging yet fun.  If all you've ever climbed is a "kids wall" at some fair, or a small one at some local weight gym...  I'm sorry to say, you've haven't really climbed yet.  You've put on a harness and experienced the sensation of height, but that's probably about it.
Common climbing jargon
Aid climbing - Climbing in which the climber ascends or rests by making use of the rope or gear to support his/her weight. 
Anchor - Any tree, nut, bolt, cam, piece of gear or other protection device that holds a climber or team to a wall, slope or cliff with rope, slings and carabiners.
Arete - The outside edge of rock
Back-clip - An improper method of clipping rope into a carabiner such that the rope might unclip itself during a fall.
Belay - The use of a rope to stop a climber's potential fall.
Barn-dooring - When a climber swings out (like a door) as a result of being off-balance; as from a lieback position. 
Beta - Information on how to climb a route.  Often including the best sequence to use holds, the most useful way to grab a hold, where the crux is and how to get through it, where good rest spots are, how to shift weight and balance for best effect, etc.
Bight - A bend in a rope
Bouldering - Climbing without ropes close to the ground.  The only protection used is movable pads.
Chalk - The same white stuff gymnasts use to keep their hands dry.  Totally unnecessary. ;)
Crimper - Small feature or hold which only a small portion of your fingers can make contact with the hold 
Crux - Hardest part of a climb or pitch
Dyno - A dynamic move, kinda like jumping from one set of holds to another, contact with the wall is broken for at least a moment.
Flag - A move in which a foot/leg is placed off to one side, not necessarily on a hold, in order to improve balance or body tension
Flash - To successfully climb a route on the first try.
Grade - The difficulty rating attached to a climb. 
Hangdog - To rest while hanging from the rope. 
Heel Hooking - Using the heel of your foot on a hold while climbing.
Jug - A large hold.
Lead climbing - Type of climbing in which the first climber (the leader) places gear/protection and clips it into the rope as he/she climbs and is belayed from below. Common methods of lead climbing include sport, trad and aid.
Match - to place both hands or feet on the same hold
Onsight - To successfully climb a route the very first time with no beta or prior knowledge of the moves.
Pitch - One rope length, from the ground or one belay station to the next belay.
Pocket - A type of hold that you can just put a few fingers into.
Protection - The gear that a climber attaches the rope to as he/she climbs. 
Quickdraw - A short piece of webbing and two carabiners, usually sewn in. Aka, a draw
Rappel - To lower yourself from the top of a climb using a rope.
Red Point - A successful ascent of a route with no falls or rests on rope/gear.
Send - To successfully climb a route. 
Slack - Extra rope. As in, "I need some slack"
Sloper - A type of hold with a smooth rounded surface but no hold per se.  Maximizing skin contact is the best way to use these holds.  They are best used from low centers of gravity in relation to the hold.
Side-pull - A hold that provides lateral stabilization but little or no vertical use.  When combined with foot holds these are very effective and useful.
Smearing - Method in which the climber uses only the friction from the sole of the shoe against a relatively flat surface with little or no hold. Maximizing surface contact is critical for success.
Sport climbing - Climbing routes where quickdraws are clipped into existing bolts on the face of the wall. This is a type of lead climbing.
Spot - To protect a climber by being preparing to prevent their head from hitting the ground if they were to fall.
Static Rope - A type of rope that has no elasticity or dynamic characteristics. 
Stemming - Technique in which the hands and/or feet are press in opposing directions on holds or surfaces. This is an inherently stable position.
Switch-feet - To smoothly lift one foot from a hold an replace it with the other foot.  This is a critical yet simple climbing technique.
Take -To pull in rope so the climber is tightly secured by the rope. Often said when the climber feels they might fall or the belayer is not keeping up.
Toe Hooking - Using the toe of your foot to pull your body towards the wall, typically used on overhanging routes
Top-rope - A type of belay in which the climber is protected with a rope running through an anchor at the top of the pitch.
Trad climbing - aka Traditional climbing - Climbing routes on which removable gear is placed for protection by the leader as he/she ascends. Types of protection used in trad climbing include; nuts, hexs, cams, carabiners, etc...
Undercling - a downward-facing hold gripped from beneath and pulled up on.  Typically this type of hold relies on good foot positioning/holds to balance the forces.
Webbing - Flat woven tubular rope typically made of nylon. Often inexpensive and strong in relation to weight and size.
Whipper - A long lead fall in which the leader is jerked about on the end of the rope. 
Z-Clip - Clipping the highest point of protection with a section of rope pulled up from below the last piece you clipped. This a dangerous mistake, and essentially nullifies the usefulness of the last clip resulting in a much longer fall.
.