Thursday, 26 March 2009 10:49
Tea Q & A
- If loose is better, why is bag tea so common?
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I'm really not trying to be a snob here but I think bag tea is only in existence because of the combination of these factors.1. Convenience. This is THE one. People are lazy, but mostly they haven't been exposed to loose leaf methods of brewing.2. Availability, good loose leaf is harder to find at reasonable prices. In this way, knowledge is the limiting factor. Bag tea is available at the local market. I buy from china.3. Its a product, not produce. Therefore easier to package, market and profit from.4. Consistently the same level of quality (IMHO lesser quality)5. Its slightly harder to mess up the infusion process.6. Cheaper to produce, chopped up leaves found in bags expose more surface area so the first infusion gets all the flavor out. It also allows less flavorful but more productive tea plants to be used. Dust tea is sold at the lowest grade value.7. Perceived high cost. In my opinion, this is not an issue (see 'the cost delusion' faq).
- Ok, but there's no bag... how do you make tea with it? (brewing methods)
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No problem, its easy once you get used to the idea. I'll go over a few standard methods, and then my favorites.
Common methodsTeapot - many teapots these days have an infuser basket that keeps the leaves from passing through the pour spout. Drawback is that you can't make single infusions. Tea shouldn't sit and cool. Never reheat tea. Its best to brew just enough to pour one cup, therefore a teapot is for groups only in my opinion. The teapot I have is shown to the right. It has an acceptable method of separating the tea leaves from the hot water when the desired infusion level is reached and the double wall design insulates the heat from surfaces (hands and tables). This design may not be available, but I'm sure they have a new model that is similar.Yixing teapot - For many tea aficionados this is the preferred method. Yixing is a special porous clay that is red sometimes tending towards purple. It is supposed to accentuate the flavors and after many infusions the flavors are recycled. For this reason, you wouldn't brew black and green in the same pot. This concept always seemed dirty to me. Probably why I don't own a Yixing pot, but I'm not saying its a bad method by any means.
Mesh ball - an ok solution... not much room for the leaves to expand, the mesh holes are often too big, and there can be a slight metallic taste.Empty mesh tea bags - it works for travel. Disposable and easy to use, just fill and fold over. Leaves are constricted a little and it would be a wasteful if used as a daily method. I get mine at the japanese market.
FavoritesGaiwan - a traditional chinese 3 piece infusing vessel composed of a cup, saucer and cover. The cover is used to push the leaves away to drink or as a strainer to pour into another glass. see (link) Benefits are maximum control of brewing by covering or uncovering and also by using the lid to move the leaves around. Leaves have full freedom to expand and unfurl. Ceramic maintains heat, light color interior allows you to judge infusion strength. It can be used to make tea for one or about 5. This method didn't make it 6 hundred years by accident.
Bodum YoYo with double wall or mug - This was my daily method for many years. Its a good one. There is room for the leaves to open and a spot to set the infuser when you remove it. Glass lets you judge infusion strength. Its a modern method, that is in many ways as good as a gaiwan. Another benefit is that you can use the infusion basket with all kinds of different cups. The only drawback I can think of is that it is primarily but designed for one cup and therefore one serving. But 90% of the time I make tea for 1. - How much caffeine is in tea?
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Caffeine has a distinct flavor, bitterness. Its noticeable when not masked by tons of creme and sugar. The best part about tea is that it contains such a small amount of caffeine in the first place.
Coffee starbucks grande 320 mg
Coffee typical brewed 8oz 80 mg
Espresso starbucks single 75 mg
Cola 45 mg
Black Tea 40 mg
Oolong Tea 30 mg
Green Tea 20 mg
White Tea 15 mg
But this list doesn't tell the whole story.
When I drink tea, I "wash" the leaves first. This means I pour hot water (temp varies based on tea type) and let it sit until the leaves begin to infuse flavor/color. This liquid is then poured down the drain. This process wakes the leaves and removes some of the caffeine and bitterness. If you prefer a "decaffeinated" tea, you could just pour out the first well steeped cup as well. The first cup contains a large portion of the caffeine. The next four or so infusions will have full flavor but lack most of the caffeine. Some chemicals in tea are believed to slow or inhibit the absorption of tea. There are also many active chemicals in tea that have calming and relaxing properties. An amino acid called Theanine may be responsible for stress reduction, increased cognition and have calming effects. What is certain, is that Zen monks have used tea for centuries to still and focus the mind. Decide for yourself, my personal experience is that I have never experienced a twitchy coffee buzz when I drink greens and oolongs. Instead I feel a sense of calm and clarity.
In some studies, tea bags have been found to have almost twice as much caffeine. This is largely due to the fact that tea bags use "dust", a finely ground cheap version of tea that is more intense because more surface area of the tea is exposed. This results in a quicker, stronger infusion with almost no flavor remaining for additional infusions. Such is the nature of highly "processed" products like bag tea, its the chicken nugget of the tea world. Where parts are parts, and artificial chemical enhancements are fair game.
- The cost delusion
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Most people don't realize, loose leaf doesn't cost more than bag tea (but it certainly can). Its just not available at your grocery store. I checked, a barely drinkable brand called Tazo will cost you about $6 for 20 bags. Which works out to about 30 cents a cup (although you could probably steep it twice, maybe). The alternative is purchasing tea from where it is appreciated a something closer to an artform than a product. China, the birthplace of tea. My preferred vendor is a ebaystore called Dragon tea house. An example of an "exceptional" but economical loose leaf tea is an oolong called Tie Guan Yin(review), (don't get freaked out by the chinese names), it'll run you about $10 (at the time of this post). But instead of 20 bags, you get 100grams (the smallest increment available at this site). Figure about 2-4 grams per cup that gives you $10-$20 for 50 cups. Which works out to about 20-40 cents per cup. In this example the loose leaf tea is about as expensive as bag tea, but you could easily pay $30 for 100grams too. However, the difference in quality is like comparing fresh farmers market spinach to canned grey spinach from 1937. While this analogy will serve most, a more in depth description of the differences between bag and loose tea can be found here.
That said, I've spent close to thirty dollars on a 100grams before. And yes, it is good stuff. Is it 3x as good as the $10 stuff?... debatably, but its still only ~$1 a cup. Starbucks is $3-$5 a cup. Another big difference is that I'll get 7 infusions off a quality oolong. That'd bring my per cup down to 20 cents technically.
- What do you recommend for someone just getting into tea?
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A gaiwan (200ml or 7oz) ~$20 - 200ml is my preferred size, not too much, not to little.An oolong - a good starter would be one of these-Tie Guan Yin ~$10 - a common oolong, very solid. Floral and fruity not bitter. Here is a link to a review of this tea on my site. (link)-Da Wu Ye ~$14 - a times my absolute favorite, floral yet earthy. An amazing balance.A green - pick one of these-Dragon well ~$11 - a classic and this is a good one. Light and flavorful but not grassy.-Bi luo chun ~$7 - very high quality for the price and great intro to green.A strainer ~$8-$2 - because they're really handy and cheap. I use them when pouring from a gaiwan into a cup, makes it easier until you get the feel for it or until you decide you like small particles. I have the yixing one, its really nice.A cup, any will do, but my favorite is the bodum pavina 9 oz.So... For a gaiwan, an oolong, a green tea, a strainer and shipping you spend about $50. But with the amount of tea you bought you can brew about a 60-80 batches of tea. That's ~65 cents a cup and that includes all the gear.
- What is the optimal tea brewing temperature
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The good news is that its really not hard to make a great cup of tea. Here are some guidelines to get you started.Green should be brewed around 165F, oolong around 180F and black around 195F. All this depends, within these huge categories there are huge variations, but its a place to start. At 210F, boiling water is way too hot... think burnt toast. If you brew a cup that is too bitter, its not because it needs sugar or creme. Dial back the temp, time or both. If its watery and flavorless, up the temp or time or quantity of leaves.The Chinese have a visual method... if you make some observations on your own with a thermometer you'll get to the point where you can ditch it.
Crab Eye Water: 175-190 degrees
Water shows lazy steam and tiny bubbles, depending on the way they form and how bit its ideal for Greens and Oolongs. When the eyes just start to appear its probably around 175.Fish Eye Water: 190-200 degrees
Water hisses loudly and small bubbles rise quickly to the surface with a hot, fast steam. Ideal for Black teas.Old Man Water: 212 degrees
A rolling boil. Perfect for tisanes (aka herbal tea) but too hot for any tea.Keep in mind, I would gladly brew 50 awful infusions in a row if it would teach me to brew the perfect cup every time for the rest of my life. ;) Like everything else in life, the patient and observant soul sees the underlying patterns that shape our existence. There are worse ways to spend time. ;)
- Health benefits
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You've probably heard all sorts of stuff about green tea having tons of antioxidants that cleanse the body of toxins and all that. There are all sorts of health benefits for all types of tea. There are polyphenols in green. The theaflavins and thearubigens in black tea. There are more antioxidants in white tea than any of the rest. But which is the best? Depends on which study came out most recently or receives the most amount of press. There is more and more research coming out all the time, but I wouldn't get all caught up in it. I drink a lot of oolong, some green and some black. But because of the flavor, not health benefits. I'm guessing they're about equal anyway.What you should know, is that tea has been touted as a cure all by chinese since its discovery in ~2737 B.C. Its evolved a lot since then, but its no accident that its popular all around the world. Much of its early popularity was probably due to its anti-bacterial and anti-malaria effects, actually having very little to do with the tea itself. Boiling water kills a lot of stuff, and water quality today isn't as nasty as it was. ;)My advise is ignore the studies, drink your favorite kind of tea and decide for yourself. For me, it tastes great. Its a flavorful accent to water that has a pleasant aftertaste, unlike soda or coffee. If you're drinking tea instead of either of those two, I can guarantee a health benefit. But test it yourself and decide.
- I'm having a hard time getting infusion strength right, what should I do?
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Don't get frustrated with bad batches of tea, they'll actually help you.Huh? you're saying the secret to brewing good tea is to brew bad tea? Sortof, yes. The goal is to find a perfect balance of many complex processes. Unless you know what an overbrew tastes like, its hard to know how to fix it. The point is that when beginning, you should push the boundaries of what you think will probably be to weak or too strong. Then dial it in and try to repeat good results. Try and be open to the different factors that are in play and try and find that sweet spot.Factors to consider:Type of tea: darker more oxidized leaves mean stronger tea, typically.Temperature of the water: Hotter water will infuse tea faster and too hot will scorch the leaves making it bitter or tart.Amount of water vs amount of tea: How much tea you use effects the strength, but so does amount of water. If you're brewing a whole pot its a lot harder to get the ratios right and the timing. Also, by the time you pour the second cup it'll be totally different, even if you removed the leaves. Its a good idea to learn with small batches, like using a gaiwan.Time of infusion: This one is obvious, the longer the infusion the stronger the tea. When I brew tea I always remove it from the water at some point before it is cool enough to comfortably drink and set it aside for the next batch.Which infusion: Later infusions need longer steeping times and slightly higher temperatures.Agitating the leaves: By moving things around a bit, you expose the leaves to less infused water, which speeds up the rate of infusion a little. Also, you get a more consistent/even visual read on the infusion strength. I think it also improves the result.Length of rinse: I always start by adding hot water to the dry leaves and waiting till I just see the color coming off the leaves. Then I just pour it down the drain and start the first infusion. It wakes them up and probably cleans them a bit. Most tea drinkers do it. It will reduce some of the bitterness of the first cup.Others: there are more I'm sure, just be open and attentive to the process.
- Sugar and cream?
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Oh, boy... don't get me started. I'll use an analogy. Would you ask for A1 steak sauce for your steak at a restaurant? I guess I might, if a flavorless slab of meat was put in front of me. But say it was some high-end 8oz fillet with a rich flavorful red wine reduction & caramelized pearl onions. I'd be a shame to destroy the excellent flavor of the dish by slathering on "flavor makeup" in a bottle. In the same way, good tea should really be drank pure. Thai iced tea, english breakfast or chai is a different story, but I wouldn't look down on someone for putting ketchup on a hot dog, unless maybe it was a german brat.... But I digress and the food analogy has exhausted its usefulness.My point is that tea ain't coffee, you don't have to cover up any bitter or nasty flavors with cream and sugar just to get your fix. Honestly, if you think you're drinking a mocha frappuccino for the "coffee" flavor we're gonna have to just agree to disagree. Its a milkshake with as many calories as a big mac, the only thing missing is the caffeine pellet from circle K.
- Any thoughts on herbal tea?
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Actually that is an misnomer. There is no such thing. The word 'tea' is commonly thought of as a any stuff you soak in hot water to make a beverage. However, tea refers only to the leaves of the camellia sinensis bush. Anything else is called a tisane. In many countries the word tea is legally restricted to only camellia sinensis leaves, but not in the U.S., we like things nice and confusing.
Most people know what you mean if you were to ask for herbal tea, but its still displays your ignorance on the subject to any that know better. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind. It is a common misunderstanding.
Flavored teas are almost always chemically enhanced, mostly resulting in odd and in my opinion artificial tasting teas. Typically these combinations either obscure the subtle complexities of tea or mask the flavors of an inferior tea. An exception would be jasmine tea, which can be done naturally for a rather pleasing cup of tea.
- Why do you recommend dragon tea house?
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Because after trying a half dozen different tea sellers, they're by far my favorite. I haven't come even close to sampling their overwhelming selection of teas. Reasons why include:Amazing selection - it could be a little overwhelming, but it doesn't have to be. Start small, I have reviews to help.Quality - the best I've had... it's that simple.Photography of product - excellent photos make a difference. Browse around and check out some product photos, you can see exactly what you're getting.Cost - there might be better deals out there, but not for this level of quality, IMHO.Customer service - Gordon is great, I've never had any service problems and in my experience he's always been prompt and courteous.Shipping - it comes from china, so it takes a little longer than US distributors, no big deal. If you order more than one thing, just email gordon your order and he'll discount/consolidate the shipping. To me, shipping has always seemed really cheap. When you buy multiple items, don't expect to pay $4 per item, its more like $4 per order. But of course it depends.Freshness - this is a big issue for me, if a website doesn't specify what year it was produced... you don't want it. It'd be like buying a bottle of wine without a label showing the year, questionable? I wouldn't buy it.ebay - don't worry, its an ebay store not some individual... I've bought from them over 3 times.Advertising - so am I affiliated with them in any way? No, I just appreciate quality. I share my knowledge to help friends find the same enjoyment in tea that I have.
